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                                        Welcome to the Winter 2007 issue of OUTBOARD NEWS, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
 
INDUSTRY NEWS
 
     Not much has changed from last year in terms of outboard motor technology.  Horsepower has reached a plateau of 300 HP, and prices are exceeding $20,000.  Sales volume is about 350,000 units.  If divided equally among all the manufacturers, that would be 50,000 units each.  Not a big number.
     A little off-topic, but still interesting, are the changes coming to stern drive and inboard engines. The small block and big block GM V-8 and companion V-6, which have been around for 40 years, are planned to become obsolete and will no longer be manufactured for use in cars and trucks.  That means relatively cheap horsepower coming in the form of high-volume automotive production will be a thing of the past.  The exception may be one or two models like the three liter in-line four cylinder. These are used in cars and made south of the border.
     State and Federal regulators will require catalytic converters to be sandwiched into the exhaust system downstream from the exhaust manifold.  These catalytic converters will be cooled and wrapped with insulation, because they take up space in the engine compartment and raise ambient temperatures.
     One alternative to catalytic converters might be direct fuel injection (DFI), which has been shown to significantly reduce carbon monoxide in the exhaust.  This technology has the potential to eliminate the need for catalytic converters. Several foreign car manufacturers are already using DFI on their gasoline engines, as are the two-stroke outboard builders.  Putting the fuel in the cylinder only after the ports or both intake and exhaust valves are closed is the way of the future for reciprocating internal combustion engines.
 
SERVICE
 
Ethanol as a fuel is becoming ever more popular, and there has been much uncertainty over its effect on marine engines.  We will begin some questions and answers on the subject, with the information provided by Mercury Marine.
 
1. What are ethanol and ethanol-blended fuels?
    
     Ethanol for fuel is highly refined beverage(grain) alcohol, approximately 200 proof, that can be produced from natural products such as corn, sugar cane and wheat.  New technology will allow ethanol to be made from "cellulose" feedstock's including corn stalks, grain straw, paper, pulp, wood chips, municipal waste, switchgrass and other sources. Ethanol used for fuel has been "denatured" or rendered unsafe to drink by the addition of a hydrocarbon (usually gasoline).  The ethanol-blended fuel E-10 refers to fuel that contains 10 percent ethanol and 90 percent gasoline.  Similarly, E-85 contains 85 percent ethanol and 15 percent gasoline.  E-85 is intended only for engines specially designed to accept high-ethanol content fuel blends, such as the Flexible Fuel Vehicles (FFV) made by some car companies.
 
2.  How is ethanol made?
 
     In the US, ethanol is typically produced by removing the starch or sugar portion of corn and fermenting it.  The fermented starch is then distilled into alcohol. Excess water is removed, resulting in very pure-200 proof- ethyl alcohol (ethanol). 
 
3. What are the characteristics of ethanol?
 
     Ethanol is an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound that has a high octane rating and therefore is useful in increasing the octane level of unleaded gasoline.  The EPA has allowed the use of ethanol in gasoline at levels up to 10 percent as an octane enhancer and to provide beneficial clean-burning combustion characteristics that help improve some emissions.
     Ethanol is hygroscopic (it has an attraction for water) and will more readily mix with water than with gasoline.  It has different solvency behaviors than does gasoline, which allows it to loosen rust and debris that may lie undisturbed in fuel systems.  And it can more readily remove plasticizers and resins from certain plastic materials that might not be affected by gasoline alone.  Loose debris will plug filters and can interfere with engine operation.  Additionally, ethanol is corrosive to some metals, especially in combination with water.  Although gasoline does not conduct electricity well, ethanol has an appreciable capability to conduct electricity and therefore can promote galvanic corrosion.
 
4.  Does ethanol affect horsepower or fuel efficiency?
 
     Ethanol has a heating value of 76,000 BTU per gallon, which is approximately 30  percent less than gasoline.  The result is E-10 gasoline which should yield slightly lower mileage- a decrease of about 3 percent.  Fuels containing higher levels of ethanol will have a corresponding reduction in mileage.  For example, E-85 fuels produce mileage about 30 percent less than gasoline.
     The octane rating of pure ethanol (200 proof) is about 100 and is therefore useful in elevating the octane value of gasoline.  In E-10 blends the presence of ethanol provides about 2.5 to 3 percent of the overall octane rating.  The effect on engine horsepower is determined by the octane result of the blended fuel.  Care should be taken to select fuels having the octane rating recommended for the engine as indicated in the owner's manual for proper operation.
 
Next month- Compatibility with Mercury Engines
 
UPCOMING EVENTS
 
The Finger Lakes Chapter of the Antique Outboard Motor Club will be holding their annual swap meet and show at our facilities on Feb 10th, 2007.  We are located in Western New York, near Niagara Falls.  Call for more info or directions.
 
HISTORICAL
 
     In the 1950's, one of the most popular outboard boat manufacturers was Lone Star Boats, from Grand Prairie, Texas.  Their monthly newsletter to dealers was called the "Lone Star Log".  In the October, 1955 issue, Vice President for Sales, Dick Verrill announces the new slogan: "Get More Out of Life With Lone Star".  He boasts "We have the finest line of boats in America today, and our future is limitless. Lone Star possesses a team the envy of the boating industry, a team boasting top-flight production people, engineering know-how and a sales staff second to none in the industry."  At this time, they introduced their new logo: "Salty Dan, The Lone Star Man! Take a tip from him and ride the Shooting Star yourself...as you can see, it's always on the climb!"
Despite all this happy talk, Lone Star's fortunes had taken a turn for the worse by the early 1960's,  and came back to life as Chrysler boats, when Chrysler Motors jumped into the outboard boat and motor business.
 
     Oliver outboard motors were sold from 1955 through 1960.  Although on the market for only 6 years, Oliver motors are well known and desirable among old motor collectors.  In 1953, Chris Craft decided to stop making outboard motors and shuttered its factory.  In 1954, Oliver, which had previously manufactured farm machinery, announced that they had purchased the outboard factory, and will modernize the old Chris-Crafts and sell them under the name Oliver.  This continued until 1960, when Oliver discontinued outboard production.  The serial numbers are:
 
Model                Serial                    HP
 
1955
J Challenger          55J                   5.5
K Commander       55K                   15
 
1956
J2                         J2100-00            5.5
K2                        K25-100             15
K2E                      K2E-9-100          15
 
1957
J                            55J001              5.5
J2                          J100001            5.5
J3                          103001               6
K                           55K001              15
K2                          K5001               15
K2                          KE9001             15
K3                          200001              16
K3E                        275001              16
B                            300001               35
 
1958
J-4                          105001               6
K-4                          201501              16
K4E                         275801              16
B2                           303001              35
 
1959
Mohawk J5               107001               6
Mohawk J5L             107001               6
Lancer K5E              203501               16
Lancer K5EL            203501               16
Ranger K5               203501                16
Ranger K5L             203501                 16
Olympus B-3            307001                35
Olympus B-3L          307001               35
 
1960
J6                            110001               6
K6                           220001               16
K6E                        228001                16
B4E                        390001                35
 

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                                            Things I Do Before a Wet Meet   by Owen Meredith 

    The first thing in general is to give yourself plenty of time before the meet.  Time flies by, and before you know it the meet is at hand and you are not prepared.  Also, since I will be traveling 400 miles one way, I prepare more closely than I do for a trip to a local lake for a regular boat ride.  Your distance from home determines just how much you need to be prepared. 

   Trailer:  I always carry a sturdy four-way lug wrench with me, trailer or no trailer.  The puny wrench that comes with the car or truck probably will not fit your trailer and is no match for those lugs placed on with impact wrenches.  Also it is a good idea to see that the lugs are tight and also that they will back off and are not rusted.  Be sure you have a jack that will fit under and lift your trailer.  Have the bearings been greased lately?  Putting the trailer in and out of water can make it hard on bearings, and often rust will form.  New bearings are cheap so replace them if they are rusted.  I have seen this ruin a trip.  The next thing is to check to see that the license is current and lights are working.  Also be sure you use two safety chains. Texas now requires you to cross chain so if the hitch does come loose, the tongue will lie on the chains.  One member had the experience of the ball coming loose, so check to see it is tight.  I always use a pin to be sure the hitch over the ball stays down and locked.  This I have often seen ignored so be sure the ball is well into the hitch.  A member had a large pontoon boat come loose and damage his truck as it came around and hit the side due to the hitch riding on top of the ball and not being secured.  I bring two spares if possible.  If you do have a flat, then that second spare sure makes you feel better knowing it is there.  Also, often we travel on a Sunday and help and open places may not be there when you need them.

   Motors:  This may be over conservative, but I bring three motors so I will have at least one to enjoy the water.  I try to have run all no longer than two weeks before the meet.  I try to bring lighter motors that can be changed without too much trouble.  A motor that has been sitting up a long time is a risk in starting no matter how good it is.  I also bring starting fluid as I find it is a good way to get them going if necessary.  Car Quest states their fluid has upper cylinder lubrication in it as some people feel starting fluid can damage a motor.  Also if the motor is not flooded and the motor does not start up with starter fluid, you probably have ignition problems.  If the motor runs only on your starter fluid, the motor is probably not getting any gasoline.  Some may argue starter fluid is not good for a motor, but I have never had any problems with it.  The older OMC propeller hubs have a rubber core that, due to age or hitting something, is beginning to slip.  It is best to have an extra propeller or two with you just in case.  I went out last year and spun two out before the third worked.  Of course don't forget shear pins, and make sure the pin in your motor is in good order.  They can become stuck and often bent and even if you have a spare you cannot change it.  Propellers can have the same problem.  Tools, extra spark plugs, oil, and other things needed to make minor adjustments should be with you.     

   Boat:  Have the drain plug handy, and be sure it is in when you launch.  Also be sure you have all required equipment the Parks and Wildlife Dept. requires.  Usually at the launching ramp there will be lake rules, so take time to read them and understand the rules of the lake.  Know the rules and follow them and you will be ahead of those who do not. Tom Oncken also suggested you have that sticker on the boat current and carry that little registration card with you as it is required.

   To qualify all this I will say the size of the lake and how far you are going determines many things.  Short runs not far from the dock require less than long trips.  You are the best judge of what you need to enjoy your weekend.  Hope this helps you to have a successful outing.